Day Fifteen - TMAAT in Budapest
Whilst we are very grateful that our final campsite is real and open and allows us in after 110 miles, we can’t help feeling that it is inspired by some Gulag chic, although I am told it is bang on trend right now.
There is a very brief shower of rain overnight but other wise we have been free of rain for nearly 12 hours when we head off on the final leg of our adventure at 645 this morning. That all ends within 25 mins and then it persistently rains for the next 6 hours straight. I honestly can’t even remember how many time everything I own has been through a wet / dry / wet / dry cycle but I am almost certain it will all need throwing away when I get home.
We are still following the EuroVelo 6 but the first 20 miles or so is not at all what we have become used to. Instead of a super smooth, well sign posted dedicated cycle path (which we do to be fair get for about 2 miles, hence photo to record it!) we are instead on a very busy and very poorly maintained main road. It is so super dodgy that it felt unsafe to stop and take pictures let alone try and do so whilst cycling….safe to say we are very happy when we finally leave it behind.
The rain waxes and wains but never really stops completely…..on the “TMAAT Moistometer” we quite comfortably stay between heavily moist and dripping wet all day.
Given its our last day I feel like we take a slightly more cavalier attitude to timings and we end up stopping quite regularly, in part to experience Hungary which is very unlike all the other counties we have visited, but also because any excuse to seek shelter and stop pedalling through the weather, even for a few moments is most welcome.
Shortly after we leave Ezaprom, about 30 miles into our day, we see a sign which says Budapest is 51 km which causes quite the stir in the TMAAT fraternity. It takes a few stern words from Fernando Hernandez de Monte Cristo Alan Magellan (AKA me) to remind everyone else (Marc) that there is a right way and wrong way to do a TMAAT adventure and the “right” way is to follow the Danube all the way…which means more like 80km!
Despite our perpetual state of moist it’s apparent that we have got off lightly and there has been a huge storm on the run into Budapest in the previous 24 hours. There is a lot of debris and damage everywhere and a lot of trees that have been taken down by the storm, some blocking our way.
As we reach mile 70 for the day we realise we are approaching a big city …and yes, no prizes for guessing that big city is Budapest. Our first impressions as we cycle through are that this is somewhere really quite special and befitting a 1200 mile, 15 day slog across Europe by two normal guys (I am far to humble to say heroes but if it makes you happy “two heroes”). We have settled on the highest point in Budapest as our finish line, the Citadella - Kilatopont which has the most spectacular view across Budapest. Inevitably I guess we are thwarted at the final hurdle as the Citadella is closed for improvements and despite our persistent attempts to breach all the barriers we eventually settle for celebratory champagne and medals in the park surrounding the just out of reach view point.
We linger for about 30 minutes contemplating all that we have achieved and experienced in the last two weeks and then reluctantly agree that is it time for that moment to end and for us to move on.
We cruise across Budapest to our hotel where we revel in the slightly weird notion of beds and rooms and comfort and a distinct lack of moistness and then head downstairs to the bar to celebrate properly.
This TMAAT adventure is over then and it’s truly been a very special one. I guess all that’s left then is to say “thank you”. First of all it’s a massive thank you to all of you reading this now for your never ending support, for following us for cajoling us and of course for your donations. You have helped raise over £3000 in total for Samaritans….what a truly amazing bunch you are…thank you so much. If you have not already donated that’s also fine…..now is your moment!
A huge special thank you to Jo and Gerry our partners who not only indulge us in these ridiculous flights of fancy but then support us and encourage us all the way…..you are both amazing and we are so grateful for your love and for affording us the time and space to do these stupid things.
My final and biggest thank you goes to the best friend any man could wish for, my oldest and bestest friend Marc. It so happens he is asleep on the hotel reception sofa right now as I type but in some ways that epitomises why I love him so much…..there when I need him, not there when I don’t. Without him these adventures simply wouldn’t happen and I would have missed out on all the amazing things we have seen and done over the course of six different TMAAT stories now. Thank you Marc….you are truly the most awesome human being and I am so privileged to have you as a friend and to share these experiences with you…..thank you!
The TMAAT in Bohemia adventure is over then…..watch this space for the next one. N x