We christened last nights campsite “Mozzy Hell” because whilst it was overall pretty damn good and perfectly located which meant we could watch the sun set over the Atlantic, the long uncut grass was absolutely infested with the little bastards. I have brought with me a gadget (of course) for such situations and it seemed to work quite well….woe betide you though if you venture even for a second outside the “dome of protection” it provides. I swear to god millions of them were waiting there in a little mozzy armada poised to attack as soon as so much a little toe appears outside the safety cordon. Safe to say we both got bitten a lot as we sat there drinking cold beer and eating our pasta dinner.

Todays plan, a 60 mile push to Foz do Arhelo, looks straightforward on paper compared to the previous few days (read pretty much every single one of them) and we are feeling more positive about the day ahead. The mood is lifted even more when we come across our first EuroVelo 1 sign which normally indicates more clearly marked and smooth cycle lanes and far less cobbledy codswallop.

True to form the first 35 miles or so really are a pleasure, possibly even our best so far. The path is straight and flat and for the most part well maintained and the views are truly spectacular! We pause for a hammy croissant (vegetarian option also available) and coffee second breakfast in Praia de Pedrogao and then push on. Around mile 40 the day changes…..first of all the Garmin (I am going to say unwittingly because I don’t believe it has a spiteful nature but honestly sometimes you do begin to wonder) takes us down a gently inclining beautiful smooth road which then just ends and what I assume is supposed to be a cycle path at the end of it simply does not exist. Rather than turn back and cycle back up the hill to find another way, we get off and attempt to push our bikes through. What was a dodgy path quickly turns into a treacherous gorge but turning back still seems like the worst option. We can see a road below us so plough (literally ploughing sometimes!) until eventually we emerge at the bottom.

We picked up Lidl lunch around midday and then pedalled on looking for somewhere suitable to stop….given we are so near the sea “suitable” = by the sea but our route stubbornly keeps it close enough to see in the distance but not close enough to be classified as “by it”. Our search is interrupted by an absolutely ungodly hill up….we have cycled 1000’s of miles over the years and this is only the second time I can recall us both having to get off a push….its absolutely hideous!

Safe to say the second half of the day is not nearly as positive or “fun” as the first but eventually we roll into Fox de Arehlo and our campsite for the night. We are rewarded by the news that everything on site is shut so we will have to walk into town to get supplies. The receptionist takes pity on us when we both do everything short of bursting into tears and having a full blown meltdown that we can’t have a cold beer sometime in the next 30 seconds and he avoids the awkwardness that would ensue by providing us with two from his personal stash. Showered and tent pitched we take the walk into town to pick up supplies (via the most unfriendly dogs I have ever seen and then for the first time this trip, take an hour by the pool!